Reflections on Koo Nimo, Slave River, and Cocoa

“In school you are taught a lesson and then given a test, but in life you are given a test that teaches you a lesson.”
What does this mean? “We are the architect of our own fortune,” said Agya Koo Nimo, the King of Palmwine music.
Palmwine, known by several local names, is an alcoholic beverage created from fermented sap of the palm tree, and that follows a process. The music genre got its name because it was played at gatherings where palmwine was drunk.
Koo Nimo is a legend in Palmwine music. He uses story-telling and proverbs in his songs.

He said that according to statistics, vehicles kill human beings more than diseases, and he did a song about losing a father through a vehicle accident. It was entitled, “Mother, Where is my father?”
The words of the song go:
This man once lived with his wife and his only son.
The man was knocked down by a car and he died. On Christmas day when parents were giving gifts to their children, the man’s household was sad and quiet. The day itself seemed dark and gloomy, it was raining hard outside.
The little boy went to his mom, and putting his hands in her palm, he asked
“Mother, where is my father?” “Your father is no more,“ the mother said.
“ What does no more mean?” the boy asked.
The mother looked at the son and said, “It means your father is dead.” The boy looked around in confusion.
He went and peered into his father’s room. “This is my father's room but where is he?” He asked further.
“He has been burried at the cemetery,” said the mother.
The boy sat for a while pondering the statement. Finally with a sigh he asked, “Mother, do you think the rain is making Father wet?”
The story ends here but not the message.
Life has it's own ups and downs and as with nature, humankind will taste the delicious part of it like the freshly tapped palmwine, and on the other hand, the difficult part, like the sourness of over-fermented palmwine.
Stories are told through music to create awareness of our environment, understanding of our fragility and the strength that arises out of our challenges.

Donkor Nsuo at Assin Manso, is the place where enslaved Africans were given their baths, after the grueling journey from northern parts of Ghana and elsewhere, before being marched about 40 miles to the Cape Coast Castle to be sold and transported away from their homes forever.
The people of Assin Manso, some descendants of escaped people during the during the trans-Atlantic slave trade, consider Donkor Nsuo and its surrounding areas sacred ground.

Before you enter the yard where Africans were branded with hot iron, you have to pay respect to our ancestors by bending low through a metal gate.

During our visit to the cocoa research institute of Ghana, and subsequent workshop, I got to know that cocoa is a major cash crop for Ghana.

The crop is used in different mind-blowing ways besides the production of chocolate. Soap, wine, gin, pomade, animal feed, fertilizer and many more are some more of the byproducts of from cocoa.
Cocoa!!! Ghana!!!

Philip Ampofo,
Student teacher,
Presbyterian College Of Education,
Akropong-Akwapim,
Ghana

Reflections

Today is the second to last day of WTIG and my feelings are kaleidoscopic, shifting continuously to hold all the emotions that I experienced, and the imminent pain of saying goodbye to my lost homeland. Before I depart, I want to share some of my private reflections and memories from this journey.

I remember the warm smile of a woman on the highway, selling water, a basin upon her head. Our eyes meet and her smile ignites mine and in a brief moment we connect. Strangers sharing a common gesture.

Aunt Mary, who wore a solemn scowl which intimidated me. Who’s entire face softened as soon as I said thank you. She delighted in my enjoyment of pinkaso, a spicy breakfast dough. She suddenly felt like a familiar aunty to me, making me comfortable.

We may be separated by languages but our commonality is our humanity.

Aunt Mercy’s dinner was like no other. I observed her in awe. I noticed the twinkle of her eye, the contagious laughter, the sweetness of her hug, and her easy, soulful dancing. I would be remiss to not mention her amazing food. The talia was my highlight and her sponge cake was a true treat.

The music and songs every night on the bus have become an anticipated and enjoyed ritual among us, especially the call and response of how we name each other.

I was sitting next to Agya Koo Nimo, age ninety-two, and I remember thinking I was drinking from a well of knowledge. The proverbs he shared will be remembered forever.


“Time is life. Put the watch to your ear and you will hear the tick tock of time going by. In school you learn a lesson and take a test, In life you are given a test and it teaches you a lesson.”

To my sister Gifty, my brothers Phillip, Dela, Jerry and my Kwasi, how amazing it has been to share this journey with you. I am grateful for your keen observations, openness and protective nature. Your presence is a daily joy and I am grateful.

To my white cohort members, I reflect on your presence. The tensions I held in my body as I felt your gaze upon my Black pain, and my inability to fully mourn and break open. I was able to weep with a stranger in the dungeon but not with you, knowing the cycle continues. Feeling weariness for the responsibility to build the bridges for your understanding. My quickened heart rate when seeing your lack of awareness of your own identity. I say a prayer of hope, hope that as we part ways your practice of decentering whiteness begins as you too grapple with this history. May you learn how to build a bridge to me and to us, so that one day we can simply be.

To Ghana, until next time.

Kerryn Hinds
Director of Diversity Equity and Inclusion
Chestnut Hill School, MA

Why We Don’t Cry in Slave Dungeons

“Why Don’t We Cry in Slave Dungeons”

They’re eeery, they’re Dark,
Cold concrete with no spark
Patriarchally erected by demons
With no hearts and no souls
Can’t cry in these places
Where they raped us for gold
My tears become crystals
And EYE create some new stairs
I climb to the glory, Those stories I’ll share
Because The place for MY Ancestors
Was NEVER in here
These dungeons were not built for US
They built them for themselves
These Rooms with no light
These rooms Filled with no air
These places are hellholes
THEY BELONG HERE
They shackled our bodies, Filled us with fear
Pure Evil I tell you!
I can’t waste my waters in here
I cry in places that are worthy of my tears
Here my dread become Locs, I spit, I pour
and I say Ase’

Written whilst watching the sunrise over the mountainside in Koforidua, Ghana
Whilst Breathing fresh mountain air.
Ase’

“Nature is my Mirror” LA Harris

“TEAR-FREE”


Tear-free at Anomansa
Twas not built for We
We Cry at the ocean
We Want not by the Sea
Why waste precious water
On thy enemy’s feet
We dry up like a raisin
Before submission to He
Our Ancestors bled
They struggled to be free
I am seeking the Spirit
Of Gifts left behind for We

Native/original name of Elmina was Anomansa or Enumaa nsa or wonumaa ensa (when you drink, it doesn’t finish. Place of inexhaustible water)

Ancestral Graveyard
By LA Harris
Codman Academy Dorchester, Massachusetts

Postcards

Cape Coast Castle

During the WTIG trip and program, we visited one of the three standing and important castles built on the shores of Ghana. The Cape Coast Castle originally served as a market where profitable transactions took place. The large quantity of gold found in Ghana was what primarily attracted Europeans to Cape Coast .

In exchange for gold mahogany, other locally produced goods and enslaved captives, local Africans received clothing, blankets, spices, sugar, silk and many other items. These humans changed the face of trade.

I entered the male dungeon where hundreds of slaves were held in cramped conditions before being transferred to boats bound for the Western world . The underground dungeon was a space of terror, death, and darkness.

The tour guide explained that the governor’s soldiers treated the enslaved Africans the way they did because they believed Africans did not have souls and were like animals. Despite the harsh treatment enslaved Africans were a valuable commodity in Europe, the Americas and the Caribbean.

Swimming


Swimming is a great morning exercise because it puts less pressure on the muscles and it’s good for everyone. I do not know how to swim because I was never taught. But I entered the pool.
I spotted this shallow end of the pool and thought it was a good place to learn to swim by yourself.

I then stood at the edge of the pool and felt the temperature of the water with my hand. Standing and shivering and unable to control my internal muscles, I heard my “instructor” walk up and I dived in without hesitation. Merrill, a member of my WTIG cohort, had volunteered to teach me how to swim this morning and I am standing there hesitating and shivering.
She then said to me, ‘ Kwasi, just enter and everything will stop’.

Thinking for while , I entered the water first with my left leg followed by the right and played there before proceeding to step deeper. “Swimming involves breathing, kicking with your legs and stroking with your arms” she said. “You will not realize how difficult or easy it is until you get in the water” .

It seemed easy but now it did not seem easy with me in the water. It was difficult but I challenged myself to do it. WTIG made it possible for me to meet good swimmers like Auntie Elizabeth and Merrill who took me through the swimming lessons on the trip. I thank them.

Just a day’s lesson in swimming was like a whole month’s lesson.
Not only does swimming teach people about water safety skills, but also we know that there are health benefits to swimming- it improves heart and lung health, and also increases out stamina and overall strength.

While I have enjoyed new skills through new friends I have become confident that I can swim.

Kwasi Daniel Agyei
Kpohe D/A Basic
Accra - Ghana

I Am Poem

I am because we are
We are because I am
Have said it before but I AM really from kings and queens
I am from small villages and big cities
I am from black eyed peas cornbread and greens
I am from yams, and jollof rice, and plantains
I am from the water, I live for the water
I am from the sun- the warmth, the rising and setting- yellow and red sometimes the pinks and purples too,
I saw the colors that night on House of Chiefs Road
brings tears to my eyes
The beauty
I am from love and Eva, Vivian, and Joe
The beat of the drum it reminds me I am in Ghana
The warmth I seek is here, I am the heat
I am now one with the bus, lol, we get on, we get off. Listening to Kwasi (master musician) on the drums, and then the atentenben (the flute) and don’t forget the frikyiwa (the thumb bells) And the voices of the men and sometimes blessed by Gifty’s voice too.

“Hello, hello Ghana hello Ghana hello,hello Ghana hello Ghana”
I am because we are
We are because I am


By Qiana Otieno Rudek
July 31, 2022

Sustenance

The wise Agya Koo Nimo shared valuable wisdom and advice with us through Palm Wine music and proverbs. In addition to reminding us that 92 years old is no joke, he kept coming back to one thing: water is life. For the last week, we have been reminded how dance and music feed our souls. Food also gives us life, as well as the gift of each other. As we have traveled from Cape Coast to Kumasi through Tafo and Koforidua each morning around breakfast time, Dela offers us a menu for dinner. Our Ghanaian colleagues patiently explain and re-explain each offering. Kelewele, Banku tilapia, Fufu, and red-red are amongst the group favorites.

Uncle Tete always encourages us to choose something we haven’t had before. We spend our days eagerly taking in as much of Ghana as we can. The people, culture, history, scenery, and of course, the sustenance.

Our next snack, drink stop, and meal are always on our minds. As we drive, kiosks and stalls are filled with nourishments along the road side. Women carry baskets of drinks, nuts, pastries, and anything else you could possibly want to our bus windows.

Upon arriving everywhere we go, we are offered a seat and refreshment. This has been true since day one, direct from the airport, each of us was welcomed to Tete and Liz’s family home, with water - and often a large beer! Later, we were again welcomed into their house with fresh coconuts and his siblings cooked a meal full of love, explaining what goes with what and how to eat this and that.

When we had our audience with the king, Paramount Chief of Akuapem, Oseadeeyo Kwasi Akuffo III, again, we were offered cold bottles of water. Auntie Mercy’s Shebeen may have been the most scenic spot, with food made with the most joy. So eager to share their new space, designed just for gatherings like ours.

Many of the songs we are learning,
singing and dancing to revolve around food.

Food unites us. We share. We taste. We form and change opinions. It’s not only the fresh juices at the roadside stops and the food off our plates, but we share our stories, our thoughts, our feelings. The fourteen of us are on the journey together; we eat our meals as family.

Merrill Hawkins,
The Park School, Brookline, Massachusetts

Thoughts and Experiences

"To understand what I know, I have to teach and share". These words spoken by Dr. Antonio Awuah at the University of Ghana Legon, keep ringing in my head. His words have been my major focus - to be able to learn more from outside (my environment) and inside (within me) - because I believe learning is incomplete without understanding. And for me to understand, I have to share.

Dance, music and language are the main elements used in transferring knowledge mostly through storytelling in the local Ghanaian society - known as informal education. To a Ghanaian, it is actually a formal education because it involves our culture. Through this type of education our values, skills, attitude and disciplines are imparted to the child. Sound, rythm, vibration and movement are the four major elements that also give life to an African. Dance, music, language and storytelling are interconnected to the extent that you can't leave one out of the equation. You can't dance without music. Someone might probably look at you and be astonished. The music that we sing is in a language that might be telling a particular story with a dance pattern. And all these will be transferring a lesson. Education in Ghana must be based on Ghanaian culture.

At Cape Coast castle, I was moved. After the tour guide finished the presentation I just gave a deep sigh. Strong African men who were captured as slaves had to be kept in a different room? I thought that was powerful. That shows how strong we Africans are, both physically and mentally. In the male punishment room, a room with no window or light I was afraid, and there were goosebumps all over me. When the guide closed the door and we remained silent in there for some seconds, I closed my eyes and I could hear voices in my head singing. And I believe that the songs I heard were messages from my ancestors telling me about Hope, Bravery, Freedom, Peace, Unity and Royalty.

As a Ghanaian visiting the Kakum National Park for the second time, there was more connection than there was for me the first time. I could hear birds calling to each other with a rhythm, and I felt the breeze in the forest. Walking on the Canopy Walkway was a whole new inspiration from within. I wasn't nervous when we began, but I got scared a little when we switched positions and I was leading. I felt like I was the only one on the walkway, then I turned to look back and I saw everyone behind me. That gave me courage to continue, to keep moving because I have supporters and also I'm leading. I was able to connect the experience to being a leader, having courage, taking bold decisions and setting good examples for my colleagues and students to follow.

The experience and connections at Donko Nsuo for me were extraordinary. I felt like I was lost as a Ghanaian not having enough knowledge about my history and culture. But I have found myself, thanks to WTIG and cohort members. I believe there is more I have to learn about myself and that is what this visit has inspired me to do. Having a father and a mother from different Ghanaian ethnicities tells me I have a lot to learn about myself from both sides, which can also help my students to know their own culture and ancestors. And this drives me back to my first conclusion that Education in Ghana must be based on Ghanaian culture.

Agyemfra Jerry
Student Teacher @
Presbyterian College of Education, Akropong-Akuapem, Ghana